December 2013 Meyer Plows Q & A
E-47 Right Angle Problem
Subject: Questions On Meyer Right Angle Problem
I have a meyer ST90 with a E-47 pump that I have a problem with angling to the right. It raises and lowers fine. If I angle to the left it goes left as it should but if I try to angle to right it goes left. I've been through the troubleshooting flow charts and they don't exactly fit this situation. I've done the following troubleshooting/repairs
1. A-frame center pin worn/broken welds at center plate/angles.
A. Welded new center pin plate to A-frame and confirmed A-frame swings freely from side to side with angle cylinders detached.
B. Flushed cylinders and drained pump fluid and replaced with SAM Blue fluid.
2. Verified angle switch has continuity between center spade (where Black wire supplies power) and all three end terminals (White/Green terminal side & White terminal side)
This confirms angle switch is working properly.
3. Confirmed there is power to C-coil (green wire at pump connection. )
This confirms wire harness to operate C-coil which controls right angle is good.
4. Also confirmed there is power to A-coil (Black wire) and B-Coil (Red Wire) while checking C-coil power to pump even though these do not control right angle.
5. Verified C-Coil is good by:
A. checking resistance between green wire and metal coil case. It was approximately 4 ohms ( It was not open or shorted) There was also no discoloration inside this coil indicating it had shorted.
B. I had a spare coil and temporarily installed it just in case the original coil was weak. This original coil was replaced last year because the wire was broken. I didn't suspect this 1 year old coil was defective.
C. Applied 12VDC to Green coil wire and listened for clicking to indicate C-valve was opening correctly. This indicates there it was magnetizing enough to actuate the valve.
I feel pretty confident the C-coil is good at this point. It also seams the C-valve is opening too (Clicks when energized.)
I also applied 12VDC to the A & B-coils and listen for the clicking sounds of the valves while doing the check on the C-coil. They also click.
5. Replaced O-rings on B-valve to stop fluid leak.
6. Replaced Crossover valve assembly with P/N 15606. I'm aware this is an old /obsolete p/n and I purchased this from you last year when you had some old inventory. The valve was sticking -- the pin that you pull out with the needle nose pliers in the video was sticking in the seat (piece with 4 hole that you use a wire to hook and pull out. ) The other parts (spring /bushing) were good so I didn't see a reason to replace these. I didn't move the adjustment for crossover because when I removed the acorn nut it unscrewed from the pump like it did in the video you made verse leaving the threads in the pump body. I don't have a pressure gauge and figured if it was set correct before disassembly it should be pretty close after changing just the pin/seat and o-rings. After watching the video you made, I thought I should check where the adjustment was set. When I removed the acorn nut, I found there fluid under pressure and it kind of squirted out rather than just drain a bit. I ended up buggering up the threads removing the acorn nut to see where it was adjusted so I installed the new adjustment screw. I screwed this adjustment in until it just touches the pin. ( You can about get a razorblade between the cap screw head and the threaded stud like you explained in the assembly video.) The old adjustment was not screwed in this far. Cap screw as backed out approximately 1/8".
I've provided all this background to lead up to what I think is a coupler problem but I'm not 100% sure. When I bought the plow a few years ago I originally found a mixed setup of couplers.. Ball type on one hose end and pin type on the other. (Don't ask me how this worked right for a few years this way.. I have no clue.) I then started having the problem with the blade only angling left even when trying to angle to the right. I found the coupler on the right angle cylinder was under pressure and you had to use a pair of pliers to uncouple it. You had to tap the end of the hose to relieve the pressure to recouple it again. I also discovered that if you lightly tapped the pump on the acorn nut or the pump angle block with a hard rubber hammer it would then work ok for a while. This is what lead to the discovery of the sticking crossover valve and the work I did there. I also realized there could be issues with the mix of couplers so I replaced both side with S.A.M pin type. These were readily available locally at Tractor Supply (TSC) and from what I was reading the pin type were better so figure it would be good to get rid of the old mixed ones. From new there always seemed to be a lose of fluid when connecting /disconnecting these new couplers. I checked the ratings on these couplers and they are rated @3000PSI which I think could be an issue.
A few questions I have:
1. Is there a possibility the C-valve is defective? I don't want to just throw $$$ at it to say its new if not needed. I want to know what real problem is and correct it.
2. I know you recommend the pin type couplers. Is it possible these SAM couplers are bad and if so is there something else that is causing these to fail? I'm finding mixed info that indicates it's all pin type couplers and you should use only the ball type or is it that the SAM pin type is underrated at 3000PSI and I need the 4000PSI pin type. I ordered new couplers from you today because these SAM ones just don't seem right and I don't like the leaking when coupling them together. Fluid out = point for water/dirt in. I'm thinking bad couplers are the cause of the angle problem.
3. In the crossover valve - What direction does the taper go on the washer that the spring seats against go? Is this critical?
4. Am I missing something in another area that is causing it not to be able to angle to the right? I would sure appreciate your input.
BTW ... I can't say thanks enough for all the info you publish on the web and the videos!!! Boy is this helpful.
Thanks again !!!
I can be reached by phone at XXXXXXX (cell) if it's easier for you.
PS .. I laughed like mad on your comments about the guy who called wanting a used pump and then hung up on you. Some day he may wake up and realize the bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price.
My money is on the C Valve.
This is the path of fluid flow:
Gear Pump------B Valve--------C Valve------Passenger side PA Ram.
So to raise the plow, the B Valve must divert all of the fluid from the pump into the lift cylinder.
To angle right the C Valve must divert all of the fluid to the driver’s side PA Ram to make the plow go right.
The main cause of going left instead of right is a bad C Valve. IF you had a new one there, you might hear the difference. They click pretty loud. Just because they click does not mean 100% they are good.
You would be surprised what works, when it seems it should not (ball type to pin type for instance). It is not “right” but it often works. I get all sorts of cobbled together units in for repair.
Back to the flow I mentioned up top. IF you look at the flow chart in the Meyer manual for right angle:
The fluid has to flow through the C Valve, and if it is not open fully, it will bleed pressure to both rams at the same time. The pressure on the Pilot Check Piston must lift the Pilot Check Valve Ball off its seat to allow fluid to return to the reservoir. Since the Crossover is set @ 3800 +/- 400 psi, and pump pressure is only 1650 psi, it is not enough to lift the pin in the Crossover Relief Valve off its seat, so it should be sealed, stopping fluid and pressure from getting to the passenger side PA Ram. So the two main things are the C Valve fully opening, and the Pilot Check Piston being able to move freely in its bore, to lift the Pilot Check ball off its seat, letting fluid go back to the reservoir.
So you see it is impossible for it to be the Couplers. IF it was a bad coupler, it would be that the plow gets stuck and will not move, because when a coupler fails it acts like a check valve. So it would stick with the plow all the way to the left, or all the way to the right. Going left when you want right, is a C Valve or Pilot check Piston problem.
Also, you were very thorough in your testing, but one test you want to make is voltage, not continuity. For instance, IF when the vehicle is running, there is 14v across the battery terminals, then there should be 14v at the power spade on the back of the switch. When the switch is on (asking for right angle), there should be that same 14v at the green wire for the C Coil at the grille.
We had one in here that was having a problem raising. There was 14v going into the switch and 8 or 9 volts at the grille. A new switch solved the problem. The B and C Coil are identical other than the color of the wire, and both need a minimum of 9v to work, but they are not as strong at 9v compared to 14v. I keep saying 14v but at minimum 12v/
Much of your thorough testing would be relevant if the plow was getting stuck to one side. It is good that you made many of the repairs that you did, and it did not hurt to do much of the testing that you did.
The C Valve itself, it is very important the order that the O Rings and Back ups are installed on the journals. IF they are switched, fluid can leak past the O Rings. That is why the Back ups are there. I just thought I would mention that, but I still think you need a C Valve. Bad C Valves are the #1 cause of “goes left instead of right”.
Well, we have snow coming Saturday, could be an inch, could be 6 inches, and I have a pump in the vise calling me so I can go home. I spend so much time on the phone and running the business during the day, it forces me to work at night so I can actually get the work done that I am supposed to be getting done during the day. I work alone in the shop, so all the rebuilds, repairs, and installs are on me. Tis’ the season.
Thanks for the prompt response. I took your advise and due to the Saturday storm coming here also I picked up a C-valve locally. Unfortunately it was saltier in price but needed to get it fixed. I swapped it in about 10-15 min and ..bingo.. we angling to right again. I sure want to thank you again for your time.
BTW.. I agree with you on the issue of checking continuity vs voltage. I failed to mention I also used a test light to check for power at the switch and grill. I have found you have to be careful with using a digital volt meter vs analog. The digital can show voltage but only requires a very small amount of current to indicate this voltage. An analog meter has built in resistance that actually puts a load on circuit as it indicates the voltage. A test light acts like the analog meter but obviously you can't get voltage number just dim or bright indication.
As I need parts and supplies I'll be in touch. Thanks again
Glad you got it fixed.
Nite Saber II Questions
Subject: nite saber II lights and wiring (ready to order)
Message: I have a 2003 diamond plow with nite saber I lights that work. The light modules are black and yellow (old style). I want to purchase nite saber II from you. Will the nite saber II work using the old modules? Here is what I want to do. I want to purchase the nite saber IIs from you, BUT I also want to know what I need to purchase to install the new style modules. Is there a kit that comes with NS IIs, modules and required wiring, or is it sold separately? Please let me know what I need to purchase and I will do it. I am ready to purchase as soon as I hear back from you. Thank you!!
The Nite Saber II lights will work with the old modules no problem.
We sell the Nite Saber II Light kits that include the 07548 Modules.
You already have the Headlight Adapters that plug into Port A on your existing Modules, that will plug right in to the new Modules as well.
We sell the 07548 Module Kit.
We sell the various Headlight Adapters.
Your best bet is to just order the M07550 Nite Saber II Kit. With your existing Headlight Adapter you will be all set.
Meyer Nite Saber 2 Plow Lights
Plow is powered by a marine battery in the rear of jeep that I trickle charge
Subject: meyer E 47
Message: the plow angles left to right with no problem when I go to raise plow only raises up a little and it sounds like it is straining not sure what it might be, also the plow is powered by a marine battery in the rear of jeep that I trickle charge not hooked to jeep charging system was wondering if battery might be weak I tested battery it has 12.4 volts at battery with nothing running, I rebuilt pump about 2 years ago and it worked fine until this happened
Walk around to the front of the Jeep and test the voltage with the engine off. Then start the Jeep and test the voltage. Should be around 14v. I think at 12.4 you will have a problem. When that E-47 tops out, or goes full left, or full right, it pulls around 180 amps. No way is a battery in the back that gets trickle charged going to hold up to that load hitting it over and over while plowing. Remember it takes almost no pressure to angle the plow. IF you hooked the hoses from PA Ram to PA Ram and had it off the ground an inch an 8 year old could angle it by hand back and forth.
PLUS you have all that extra cable running up front, which I hope is at least 2 gauge battery cable to carry the high amperage that the plow pump is looking for.
Your best bet is to get a 850cca battery for the Jeep, and hook up the plow to that. Make sure the ground from the pump is ran back to the battery as well, NOT the Jeep frame. When you get that 850cca battery, get a dual terminal battery, and hook the Jeep to one set of terminals, and the plow to the other set of terminals. You will not regret doing it.
Also, to prove that the marine battery is not cutting it, have it load tested and see what happens. Not after you charge it, but now, when it is showing 12.4v.
The only other reasons it would not lift the plow would be a weak pump, but there is no way to determine that without a pressure gauge, and even in that case, you want it hooked up to a battery putting out 14v to do the test. The other reason would be a weak motor, which may be the case as it has been starving for amperage running off that marine battery, and it might be cooked inside.
I removed the auxiliary battery for the plow and brought it to an auto parts store to have it load tested and it failed the test. I went home and removed the battery from another car and installed it in the jeep to test if the plow would raise up. This worked without any problem. The plowed functioned normally. I contacted the previous owner to ask about the auxiliary battery. He explained that he wired it this way because the headlights dimmed when the plow was in use. I would like to wire my battery as you suggested in your previous email and was wondering if I should run the positive line from the battery directly to the plow or go through the relay that is existing now. Also, the previous owner wired the negative cable from the plow to the engine block. Just a note, the wire he used is 8 gauge. I am attaching a diagram of the wiring as it is currently. If you could offer your suggestions on how to proceed, I would appreciate it. I am not confident with electrical repairs.
You need the Solenoid (relay) or else the plow motor will run continuously.
Diagram attached. Standard plow wiring is 6 gauge. 2 gauge is better as it carries the high load better, but 6 gauge is the norm.
One thing you can do when plowing that will save a lot of drain on the battery is to not repeatedly max the plow in any direction. By that I mean you pull into an area you are going to plow, and drop the plow. You get to the end of the push, and you are going to back up and push again, so only raise the plow a couple of inches so it does not drag as you are backing up. When you angle the plow, let go of the angle switch BEFORE the plow stops at full angle in the direction you are angling it.
Running, the motor pulls around 100 amps, but when it tops out in any direction, THAT is when it pulls almost twice as much. The less you hit the battery with that kind of unnecessary load, the better.
Yes, the lights will dim, you are putting a huge load on the battery, that is normal. Having it wired properly, having an 850cca battery, and 2 gauge cables with the ground back to the battery so the load is balanced, and not having happy hands and moving the plow unnecessarily will all help the electrical load.
I attached a simple diagram for you.
Thank you for your help. Have a nice Holiday you and your family
Truck Lite Wiring
Subject: Meyer plow light wiring
Message: I have a 1989 k5 full size blazer need to wire plow lights. I have four rectangular headlamps. Little confused with the wiring . I do have truck lite plow light wiring kit. Just need some assistance with questions thank J.
Do it this way, it is A LOT easier.
How we wire Truck-Lite plow lights
Old Diamond Mount with E-57H Questions
Subject: E57 H Question
I just installed a 2nd hand Meyers/Diamond Plow with a E57 H. When I got the unit, the previous owner had fully extended the lift ram (not sure how he did it as the controller was junk) so I needed to lower it in order to connect the chains from the plow. There are 2 chains on the plow, one long and one short, and I assumed that both chains were to be connected to the head gear. So I put the plow in float mode so that the down valve was actuated and used a jack to raise and connect the plow to the head gear and lower the cylinder. I kept repeating this procedure until the cylinder was nearly all the way down (referencing witness mark on cylinder), and at the point where the ram was low enough to connect both chains to the head gear, Hydraulic fluid started leaking out of the female quick connect on the sump base. The plow still works, but every time the system is pressurized the leak persists. I was hoping you might be able to help me deduce what I might have broken, and what parts I should order from you. Also how far down can the lift cylinder go safely to avoid this issue in the future? Sidenote I was hoping you could help me find documentation for my plow, all I can find for manuals online are for the ez mount type connection, and my connection is 2 pins going into 2 of 6 possible holes in the plow frame. Thanks for your wonderful website!
If you go to www.meyerproducts.com and click on Tech Support, then click on Service Manuals Installation Instructions, on the next drop down pick Archives (OBSOLETE), you will find the various Diamond mountings. Yours is called the Pull Away Mount.
You did not break anything I can think of. How far down? Until the ram bottoms out. That is the “stop”, the ram bottoming out.
There is no connection between the Lift Cylinder and the Couplers. All I can think of is that the Vent in the fill plug in the top cap is not working (the pin holes rusted shut), and pressure is building in the tank, and going backwards through a return port and putting pressure on the coupler. That said, even if so, the Coupler should hold the pressure and not leak. I would replace the Couplers. Make sure the Vent is working, you do not want pressure to build up in the tank.
Hope the info helps.
E-47 Pump Relief Valve Leaking?
Subject: Meyer 47 Pump Relief Valve
Message: I recently changed the oil in my pump getting it ready for the new year of snow. Friday I decided to move the truck into the shop and where its heated for the winter so i know it will start. The plow wouldn't raise up. I found that I was low on fluid. I filled the fluid and left for the weekend only to return and find that I have fluid all over the floor. After a review it appears that the leak may be the pump rellief valve (15611?). This is an older unit that has been abused (lack of fluid changes) prior to my taking ownership. I was wondering if these valves would possibly leak when they go bad or if it is somewhat common or might I have other problems?
You likely have another problem. I have NEVER seen one leak. The Pump Shaft Seal, yes, a cracked Sump Base, yes, but never a Pump relief Valve. IF the Pump Shaft Seal was leaking, it would come out of the weep hole right over and a little to the side of the Pump relief Valve. My guess is that is where your leak is. If you pull the motor off, you will likely find a puddle of oil on top of the Gear Pump. Now, if the Seal is popped out, you will need a new Gear Pump. If the seal is just leaking, there is still a chance you will need a new Gear Pump. The reason being is that when the Gear Pump wears, it allows pressure up under the Pump Shaft Seal, and the seal cannot hold back that kind (1650 psi) of pressure. The pump is supposed to let a little oil up under the seal to keep the shaft lubricated so it does not melt the seal from friction.
With a puddle on the floor it should be somewhat easy to see where it is coming from if you clean the unit, and then add a little more fluid to the pump.
The Pump Relief Valve has a poppet on the end of the spring that makes a seal, when the pressure exceeds the tension on the spring, it lifts the Poppet off its seat, and allows the fluid to recirculate. So there should not be fluid there to leak out, especially with no pressure on the Relief Valve Poppet.
Meyer E-60 Sump Base no more drain hole in the bottom?
Subject: E60 pump base
Message: Hi ,I just got an E60 pump base from you and as I was assambling it ,I don't see a drain plug in the bottom of the base. So how will the fluid be drained if there is no plug? The picture on your web sight shows a pug. Thanks for your help with this. W.
Thank you for bringing the photo on our site to my attention. I will have to update it. I will also update the description of the Sump Base to reflect the fact that Meyer eliminated the drain plug when they changed the casting. I don't know why, they gave me a reason a few years ago when they first did it that made no sense, and I don't even remember what it was. I will say since it is a discontinued unit (the E-60 was discontinued a few years ago) they do not support it like a current unit. They are only available as parts, I cannot order a complete new E-60 from Meyer.
As you disassembled your E-60 I would imagine you saw how much gunk was inside the unit. Even when the unit is drained, filled with flush, allowed to sit, and then shaken and drained, there is still A LOT of gunk left inside. Additionally, I do not know if you have an EZ Classic Mount, or an EZ Plus Mount, but if you have an EZ Classic mount, you might take note that the drain plug on the original base was at dead center on the bottom. When the unit is on the truck, it is almost impossible to remove the drain plug, and with it on the truck, the pump is leaning forward, NOT allowing the gunk to be drained out because the drain hole is not where the "bottom" of the unit is when it is mounted on the truck.
So to answer your question on draining the unit, the best way to drain it is to put it in a vise, and remove the Motor, and then remove the bottom allen head bolt holding the Motor Mounting Plate on, and fluid will drain from there. The top bolt can then be removed, and the Motor Mounting Plate, and then you can thoroughly clean out the inside of the unit. You would also see how much you missed by using the drain plug on the bottom of the unit. This is also good because it promotes removal of the Motor, ensuring it does not seize to the Motor Mounting Plate (I have a video of this on YouTube). While it is in the vise, you can also easily remove the high pressure filter on the back of the unit that most people do not even know is there. THAT is the important one because it filters all fluid leaving the pump. The one on the front just filters the fluid from the Lift Cylinder, and it drains back to the tank as the plow is lowered. You will need to replace the two Nylite Washers on the allen bolts before you reinstall them to ensure they make a good seal.
This is my answer on how to drain it, and I explained why it is the best way to drain the unit. Meyer's answer is to turn the unit upside down and let it drain out of the fill hole. I find that to be far from the best way.
If you would like to return the Sump Base to us, we will gladly accept it, but keep in mind that unless you can find an old stock Sump Base, all the new ones from Meyer do not have the drain, and there is no aftermarket source for these, Meyer is it.
So while all of this is probably not what you wanted to hear, it is a fact that Meyer eliminated the drain plug on these Sump Bases, and we are left to deal with it going forward.
Subject: left right angle
Message: I just installed a left right swing Meyers plow it seems that the blade does not stay straight it locks in one direction you can move the blade left by hand is there something in the control block I got 2 new switches from you and one hose the blade should stay were you set it I think thanks for your time about this matter P.
The best thing you can do is download the Service Manual off the Meyer web site here: E-47/E-57 Service Manual
There is a troubleshooting section that will help you figure out what is wrong.
Motor Solenoid Wiring?
Subject: Meyers E 47 switch wiring
I made a purchase back in November (your Record # **** J in Waynesboro, VA) of a Meyers plow toggle switch control package for my E47 system. This plow is mounted on a 1980 Jeep CJ7 all original when the vehicle was purchased new by the previous owner (who is deceased). The issue I have is that the new solenoid-3 pole (see Pic 2-Major and Pic 3-Major) that was sent doesn't match the existing solenoid-4 pole (see Pic 1 - Major). Im okay with the battery positive and negative cables, the small white wire, and the green, red and black connectors.
What has me stumped is the small black wire coming off of the 4th pole (see Pic 1-Major) of the existing solenoid which runs into a wiring harness/connection into the firewall and I can't tell where it ends up on the inside of the cab around the area of the fuse panel.
Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
The black wire is just a ground. It does not need to be connected. IF in the future you replace this solenoid, and all you can find is a 4 post, then connect it again. The new solenoid we sent is grounded through the two mounting screws. The original one is insulated, and grounds through the black wire. Meyer now uses a 4 post solenoid on the new plows. Same white wire, and there is now a small black ground in the main harness. No problem, it is just the design of the existing solenoid versus the one we sent. They both work the same way. The one we sent is the original Meyer design, the one you have on the Jeep is a “Ford Starter Solenoid”. Either will work when wired properly.
TM Plow from a Ford Ranger – install on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler JK?
Subject: Hoping you can help.
I have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (4 door). I have been given an old Meyer plow that is in working order. The motor has been rebuilt. Light kit is installed, etc. It was originally mounted on an old Ford ranger. I have the plow blade, the A-frame with side to side actuators, the hydraulic lift, and the controls. The only thing I need is the frame that mounts onto the Jeep itself.
In the attached photos, you can see that it is the type of frame that has the two pipes that side into the mount on the Jeep. In the pictures, the mount from the Ranger is still attached.
As a matter of fact, the previous owner had welded it to his frame, and actually cut the frame to remove it from the ranger (The Ranger was scrap).
I found a dealer in the Buffalo NY area that wants $795 plus shipping for a frame that fits my 2014 Wrangler. That seems like a lot of cash, and they did not sound very confident of what was needed.
From your website, it sounds like you are a lot more versed in Plows & Jeeps. Do you have a more reasonable solution?
Here is the problem. The Jeep Wrangler had its own Lift Frame as well. The Ranger, S-10, Dakota, etc. all used a universal TM Lift Frame. So even if you got the Mounting Carton, you would need a Jeep Wrangler Lift Frame. ALL EZ Classic Mounting Cartons have a List Price of $888.35 for fullsize trucks. ALL EZ Classic Mounting Cartons for TM Plows have a List Price of $1227.97. The reason for the higher price on the TM Mounting Cartons is because they include the A Frame and Pivot Bar for the plow. The problem is that most people do not need the A Frame and Pivot Bar. So that means the parts have to be ordered individually, which drives the price up. That $795 IS a good price, BUT you will still need the Jeep Wrangler Lift Frame which has a List Price of $623.28.
IF you want a plow honestly your best bet is to sell what you have and put it towards a new Meyer Drive Pro 6’ 8”.
If you told me you have a complete plow off a 2006 Jeep TJ, then it would be a very inexpensive swap as far as parts to make it work go. Since you basically have a pump and a blade, you need everything else to fit the Jeep and that just drives the cost up to where it is a bad idea. The other thing to keep in mind is that even if you did spend the money to get what you need, this will be the last vehicle you can put the plow on. The EZ Classic was discontinued in 2009. The Drive Pro 6’ 8” is current, and it uses a Universal Clevis to attach the plow to the vehicle. The Mounting Cartons consist of brackets to mount the Universal Clevis onto specific vehicles. SO if in a couple of years you decided you wanted to move it to a different vehicle, you would be looking at around $400 to do so. Also, if you decided to sell it, the buyer would only be looking at $400 in parts to make it fit their vehicle. With the EZ Classic, unless you are selling it to a new owner with a Jeep Wrangler, they will likely be out of luck. The Wrangler frame only changed slightly in width from the TJ to the JK, so there are spacer plates used to take up the gap and make the TJ Mount fit the JK. The Wrangler is the last vehicle that an EZ Classic will fit, made after 2002. The Drive Pro was designed to fit all of the downsized vehicles beginning with the 2005 model year.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but sometimes it is better to know all the facts before you waste money on a bad idea.
I cannot even start to thank you for taking the time to answer my questions so fully. It is great reflection on yourself and your business. No it isn’t the answer I was hoping for, but it is an answer I can trust. Thank you!
Your advice is well taken. I received the plow in trade for an old Ford pick-up. My brother in law is going thru a rough patch in his life, and I was willing to simply give him the truck to help him out, but his pride wouldn’t allow it.
Trading for the plow saved him his dignity and had a potential benefit for me. Even if a mount cost me some cash. But alas, that isn’t going to work out.
Thank you again for taking the time. Happy holidays to you and yours, and I hope this cold winter spells success for you.
Meyer Plow Light Wiring
You did not say which lights you have, so here are all of the various instructions:
On the Meyer web site:
Original Instructions for Truck-Lite with 6 wire switch
Original Instructions for Truck-Lite with 12 wire switch
Original Instructions for Signal Stat Plow Lights
Original Instructions for Dietz Plow Lights
Supplement for Dietz Plow Lights
Meyer Nite Saber Wiring
Hope the info helps.
Installing the top Cap Wiper
Subject: Wiper Replacement
Hello, first off thanks for the quick
shipping and the very informative website and videos. I was wondering how
you replace the wiper without smashing it. I got the old one out and
started to bend the new one trying to get it in. I was wondering if
there's a better way to do it.
I use an arbor press here in the shop (it was around $50 from Harbor Freight, nothing fancy). Before I had it I used a 1-1/8” socket and a hammer to install them. I found that if you clean the bore first with sandpaper or a scuff pad it makes it go in easier. Now I sandblast the bore to clean it first. You can also install it with a vise and a flat steel plate to drive it in evenly. I found that the hammer and 1-1/8” socket was better because I could work my way around the seal getting it to go in evenly. It is not a race, take your time getting it in.
E-60 rebuild did not succeed
Did the rebuild yesterday and put it on the truck this morning. Was confident that all was good. Hooked up to truck and appeared all functions worked. Raise and lower did not sag down. Put plow on truck and it will not raise plow. Pump runs but no power to put plow up. No power to angle either. My guess is that I did not seat the o ring for the pump correctly.
The Pump Check Valve O Ring, or the fat O Ring that goes on the back of the pump itself that I showed you that is round but when installed becomes an oval shape. Those are the two that would affect all functions. You will just need to drain it, and pull the side cover off to get to the pump. The rest can stay assembled. Because you bought the Cylinder Update Kit and the Seal Kit you should have two extra Nylite Washers you will need when putting the Motor Mounting Plate (side cover) back on.
I think I forgot to install the pump check valve seat. Watching one of ur videos now and will head back in a bit to try and put it together again.
forgot to put the check valve seat in above the ball so the oring did not
seat properly. Took it apart and did that. Had the two extra nylite
washers thank god. All is working perfectly now.
Thanks again for your help. You rock.
Replace Toggles with Slik Stik?
Subject: Slik-Stik Wiring kit?
Message: I have an oem mounted plow on a 1987 Dodge W-250, Meyer 7'6" blade w/an E-47 pump, is there a way to go from the 2 toggles to one simple joystick?
Yes, the Slik Stik Package will replace the toggles no problem.
E-57 Won’t go down?
Subject: Meyer E-57 Snow Plow
Message: Everything was working great till I hooked up the plow yesterday to my truck and lifted the plow and backed the truck and plow into my garage and tried the side tilt - it would not work. I figured I had hoses on the wrong way. Waited till today and changed the hoses, the side tilt then worked. But now the blade will not go down, it will go up - but not down.
Again - all was working properly when I took the blade off after the last snow - but now, I have this problem - any ideas?
When was the last time the fluid was changed? It almost sounds like water in the oil froze, caused problems, then thawed. Is the garage heated?
I don't understand switching the hoses. Did it not work right before? If it was right, switching them would make it angle backwards, no? Right is left, and left is right?
The A Coil on the back of the pump with the black wire opens the A Valve to lower the plow.
Which controller do you have? IF it is the one "joystick" (Slik Stik) you can lock it in the lower (float) position, and go around front with a test light or volt meter and see if it is getting power when it should. IF not, it is a switch problem, or a wiring problem. IF it is getting power, it could be a bad A Coil. If you have the two toggle switch controls, you can put the switch in the down (float) position, and test it the same way.
IF you have the Touchpad controller, it would light the red overload light and lock out only working after turning it off and back on again, IF the A Coil was bad.
Meyer E-60 goes up instead of angling
Subject: Tech help??
Is this the site where I can ask about problems with my plow? Thank you, B from Wisconsin, up to my a** in snow. I have a Meyers E60 plow that when I go to angle it, all it does is go up.
The B Valve is stuck open, or the wires at the pump are not connected right.
The valves are as follows:
A Valve, Black Wire, Controls Lower
B Valve, Red Wire, Controls Raise
C Valve, Green Wire, Controls Right Angle
There is no Valve to go left, left is default.
The fluid leaves the pump, and goes through the B Valve, then through the C Valve, and out to the Passenger side PA Ram which makes the plow go left.
To raise the fluid gets to the B Valve which is open, causing the plow to raise.
To go Right, the fluid goes through the B Valve, to the C Valve which is open, causing the plow to go right.
As I said above, there is no Valve to go left.
To lower, the A Valve gets opened, sending fluid back to the tank, lowering the plow.
So if when you try to angle, the plow goes up, that means the B Valve is stuck open, and is diverting fluid into the lift cylinder, causing the plow to raise like it should when the B Valve is open.
This is assuming that the Red Wire from the truck is connected to the Red Coil Wire for the B Valve.
This is also assuming that the controller is not malfunctioning and sending power to the B Valve holding it open when it should not be.
Hope the info helps.
That is exactly what is happening, the B valve is always on. The outer shell was pretty hot so I thought I could just disconnect the red wire and finish plowing, but when I do this, the plow angles but doesn't go up. So, you think it is the controller? You are probably done for the day but you sure helped me a lot and if I need parts, I will be ordering from you if you have parts for the old 60 pump. Thank you, B
IF you have the old square smooth face Touchpad controller it is time to replace it. Usually when they fail they turn the motor on and it won’t shut off. People panic and try to find a way to cut the wire rather than just unplugging the controller. One customer had the wire go up in flames while he ran to the garage to find wire cutters. I had 3 customers that when they turned the key on, all of a sudden the plow motor started running and they were not even touching the controller.
Now, the original smooth faced Touchpad Controller has a round 6 pin plug on the end of the cord, and the truck has a round plug as well. IF this is what you have, the BEST thing you can do is replace the Touchpad AND the Harness. Both are around 20 years old, and done. The harness is very easy to replace. The new touchpads are a lot more sensitive than the old ones, and if the harness is shoddy, or has been overheated, the new Touchpad might not work. It will throw the red overload light, and not allow you to do anything. That is the main reason for suggesting a new harness. We sell the Touchpad and the Harness cheaper than most places sell just the Touchpad for. They are Genuine Meyer parts.
I am guessing you have the old smooth faced controller because if it was the newer Touchpad it would know you unplugged the red wire and the overload light would come on and lock you out.
I have never heard of a toggle switch or Slik Stik control sending power constantly, so that is another reason for my guess of the old smooth faced square Touchpad controller from the early 1990’s. Can’t ask for more than 20 years of service out of them.
This is your best bet
Touchpad and Harness Combo
This may be a half assed idea, but, since it is the old Touchpad that does not know the red wire is unplugged, you could run a wire to it from a toggle switch. Then you could turn the switch on when you want to raise, and press left angle, and the plow will go up. Turn the switch off, and press left angle and the plow will go left. It could get you through until the new harness and controller arrive.
Hope the info helps.
Yes, you have been a great help. I checked out the touchpad and harness combo, I will need an adapter as it stated in the ad, my truck has the round 6 pin connection. Can I get the adapter through the link you sent for the touchpad? If I can swing it to get it now(that is a lot for me right now), I will surely order from you as you have really went above and beyond in helping me, not even knowing if I would be ordering anything. I will be telling folks around here just how much your company and you care. Thank you again and hope I can swing it.
That’s the problem. The Touchpad is $235, and the adapter to go to the 20 year old harness is another $25.00. That additional $25 would be better spent putting it towards the new Touchpad Harness that comes with the combo. The Touchpad Lists for $315.73, so I know we are about the cheapest out there for a new Genuine Meyer one. With the Touchpad and Harness Combo, you don’t need the $25 adapter. For now if you can wire up that toggle switch like I said you can at least get by and be able to plow.
Ok, after reading the bottom part of the touchpad link, I see that I don't need the adapter. The touchpad and combo is something like $275.00 on the link you sent. Whether it is the cheapest one out there or not, I will be getting it from you because of all your help. Thanks again and hope to be ordering the part from you later in the day. Also, thanks for the toggle switch tip Chuck, works pretty well, after getting used to it. Thanks again for all of your help.—B.
E-47 Won’t Angle Right
Message: i have a e47 that has sat for years. i tried it now it raises turns left. when i go to trun right it still turns left. what do i need to look for to make it work correctly. it worked perfect last time it was used.? any help you gan give will help
Sometimes when they sit, the Valves stick. You will have to remove the C Valve and press in on the tip with a small pocket screwdriver and see if you can pop it free. The tip of the Valve is hollow, you will see once you remove it. When you press on the inside, you should feel spring action. IF not, it is stuck. IF you can't pop it free you will need a new Valve.
Headlight Module 07347 Replacing 07116
Subject: Replacement light module
Message: Chuck I need a replacement module for an older c series plow. It has saber lights but I think they must not be Saber II. Looking through your excellent web sit I think the module might be 07347. Little confused on adaptor harness but think it might be sku:mo 7609. Can you tell me if this the correct combo. If so, I can then order it from you online.
The 07347 Modules have 3 ports (sockets) on them. A is Black, B is Green, and C is Yellow. The headlight adapter plugs into the A Port. The wires that get spliced into the park and turn signal plug into the B Port, and the wire that goes out to the plow lights plugs into the C Port. The age of the plow makes no difference. Nite Sabers use Modules.
The Nite Saber and Nite Saber II use the same modules, and have the same plugs, only the lights themselves are different.
The M07609 harness is for the M07347 Modules.
The M07609 harness has Yellow, Green, Orange, Black, and Red.
Yellow - to vehicle Parking Lights
Green - to vehicle Turn Signal
Orange to plow light switch in cab
Black - to body ground
Red - to battery
If you do NOT have the A Black, B Green, and C Yellow plugs, you have the old M07115 Modules. Since the 07115 is obsolete, you need to upgrade/update to the M07347 Module, however, you will also need the B Harness. It makes more sense to buy the M07548 Module kit so that you get two new modules and all the wiring, instead of having one new style, and one old style.
The M07347 is $99.
The B Harness for it is $28.54
The M07548 is $160.
Even if you do have the M07347 module now, it makes more sense to get two of them for $160 rather than wait for the other one to blow, and have to spend the $99 and the $29.54 again when it happens. The original M07347 were potted in epoxy. The new ones have replaceable fuses. It is rare for them to fail other than the fuses and even fuses blowing is rare.
Headlight adapters are vehicle headlight bulb specific. To replace a Module, you do not need to replace the headlight adapter. They just plug in to the new Module, like they did on the old one.
Meyer E-60 won’t angle to the right
Subject: e-60h plow pump problem
I live in maine, and I have been working on my sister's plow pump. She had read on your website about the sump base cracking on these units. I
found that it was cracked behind the pa block. I had
my sister order a new sump base. I don't think she ordered the sump from you, but she did order an ultimate rebuild kit from you. I rebuilt the unit with the new sump base. After reassembling the plow pump and installing it on her truck, I filled it with meyers fluid and tested the function of the unit. The plow raised and lowered very well, but when I tried to angle the plow to the right the pump sounded like it was deadheading, the motor will stall. Through troubleshooting with Meyer's flow chart I had her order a new "c" valve. It did not solve the problem. I should point out that at first the plow would angle to the left but it has stopped moving in that direction as well. I also noticed that that the angle rams could be moved back and forth about 1/2 inch even while my sister was attempting to angle the plow, it was not being forced either way. I have had the pa block off two more times. I did find that I had made a mistake on the check ball and spring under the "b" valve, I had the ball in before the spring. I have corrected it, but wonder if my error could have damaged this valve or if it is malfunctioning so it is not allowing oil to pass to "c" valve. I did check for power and magnetism at the solenoids and they are working, although "b" valve does not sound as sharp as "c" valve when it toggles back and forth. My cell number during the day is XXXXX. I know you guys are busy and I don't know what would be a good time to call. I tried a few times but the line was busy. I would just like to touch base with you before I have my sister order any more parts.
Busy means I took the phone off the hook to get work done in the shop. It is just me, so I can't answer the phone all day long and install plows, rebuild pumps, etc. My Wife and my Mother do the shipping and they are here until around 3 each day, and they answer the phone, but most of the time tell callers I am too busy to stop work and answer technical questions, unless they are placing an order.
As far as the E-60, like the E-47 and E-57, the fluid leaves the Gear Pump, and passes through the B Valve, then the C Valve, and out to the passenger side PA Ram, making the plow go left. The B Check Valve is to stop the pressure from lifting the B Valve off its seat during angle. I doubt you damaged anything. I have never seen a damaged B Valve before.
So to be clear:
Left Angle = Default, no valves used
Right Angle - C Valve
Raise = B Valve
Lower = A Valve
Now, the "deadheading" and the motor stopping points to one thing, pump pressure. The E-60 is capable of 5,000 psi. Spec is 2500 psi. The Top Cap will shatter and blow to pieces around 3,000 psi, so a gauge is a MUST to set the pump output pressure.
It sounds like the Pump Relief Valve is way too tight (pressure set too high). It is under the 1" Hex nut near the PA Block. It is a giant slotted screw. Tightening it raises the pump output pressure.
So, there is no "deadheading" per say, the pump should go into relief, and recirculate the fluid. Since that is NOT happening my guess is it can't because the screw is too tight to lift the ball off the seat In the Pump Relief Valve....
IF the pressure is set @2500 psi, then the motor is shot if it cannot cause the pump to go into relief.
NOW, one other thing comes to mind, did you drain and flush the PA Rams on the plow? For the base to crack there had to be water in the system, A LOT of water. IF it is as cold there as I think it is, and there is ice in the rams, they will not move, period. The pump should still go into relief in that case though.
Lift the plow off the ground an inch or two. Couple the PA Ram hoses together. You should be able to move the plow side to side all the way by hand. IF you can't you have other problems. Either ice, mechanical binding, or the packings dried out and locked the rams. Since you said you can move the plow back and forth a little while she tries to angle, it may be ice.
The other thing is the Crossover Relief Valve. It is the acorn nut on the side of the PA block. IF the spring is broke it will try to send fluid to both PA Rams at the same time. That is still not enough to stop the motor. It should go into relief. I think you are looking at more than one problem. A stopping motor usually means a bad motor or too high of a pressure setting.
Check all that out and let me know what you find.
Do the Meyer E-60 and E-60H use the same Valves? YES.
Subject: Parts Check
Message: You have the C valve and coil and say they fit the E60, but do they also fit the E60H?
The only parts different on an H model are the Lift Cylinder, Lift Ram, Tank Studs, and the Tank. Everything else is the same as a standard. What makes an H an H is that it is 2" taller, and has an 8" stroke versus the standard that has 6" stroke, and is 2" shorter.
2014 Dodge Ram 1500 and OLD ST-7.5 with E-47
Subject: Light kit
Message: I have an old Myers plow (E47 on a 7'6" blade)
I am going to put it on my new 2014 Ram 1500. What lights and cables / connectors do I need? Can you put this package together at a discounted price? How much for it all $$
Unless it is an EZ Plus Mount, there is no mount that Meyer makes for that truck. The last year for an EZ Classic on a Ram 1500 was 2001. So you will have to make your own mount, unless you have an EZ Plus mount... IF the truck has electric power steering, then you will run into overload problems with the electrical system. We are not allowed to install ANY plow on a vehicle with electric power steering. Most 2014 Dodge, Ford and GM 1500 models have electric power steering.
E-47 Coil Questions
Subject: Plow Parts E47
Message: We have a E47, I'd like to email a picture of the coils to be sure to get the correct ones. One has stamped on top C9 the other B9 (D8832) . Any help would be appreciated. mjn
The B Coil has a red wire, and the C Coil had a green wire. The B Coil is in the front of the PA Block, and the C Coil is in the back near the hose fittings on the PA Block. Sometimes the B Coil wire is faded and looks white. C9 is the C Coil and B9 is the B Coil. The 9 means they need a minimum of 9 volts to work, though they do not work well when the voltage drops below 11 or so.
E-60H Replacement Motor?
Subject: Meyer E-60H Motor
I have an old Meyer plow with a E-60H pump. It has a single lug motor on it. I broke the lug off when I was getting my plow set up last night. I see two lug motors available on line that say E-60H and they are fairly cheap. Will those bolt right up to my pump? Do you sell these motors?
Thanks for your help!
The E-60 and the E-60H both use the same motor. Be careful with the cheap ones. They often do not include the ground jumper wire you will need when replacing a single with a two lug, and they also often do not have the drain in the correct place when replacing a single with a two lug. Some come with dual drains so the unit can be mounted in either orientation, and they include the ground jumper, like the ones we sell. We are also probably twice the price of some of the cheaper ones out there.
E-60 Motor in our online store.
Thanks for the reply. I will purchase your motor.
Another silly question for you. My old pump doesn’t seem to have a place to hook the ground wire up. It looks in all of the diagrams like there should be a bolt on the pump body right behind the motor mount, but there is no such bolt on mine. Is there another place to ground this thing?
Thanks for your help
I sent a pic of the ground location.
I really appreciate all of your help.
I got the motor fixed. I managed to get everything hooked up for the first time on my truck and it works great side to side and up. However, it won't go back down. As soon as I push the down arrow, the "overload" light lights up on my controller and she's dead until I turn it off and on again. I found the troubleshooting guide and it says to test for magnetism which I have none. I can't really check for power because as soon as I hit the button it all goes out. However, if I go up and unplug the black wire completely from the coil, the same thing happens. Does this sound like the coil is bad? If so, I will order it today.
Thanks so much for your help.. it is greatly appreciated.
Yes, you need a new A Coil. The Controller monitors amp draw, if it senses none, it trips. If it senses an overload (high amp draw) it trips, and the red overload light comes on. You should be all set after you replace it.
Are you ever not working? Amazing.
I am way behind, so I have no choice. Today is my Anniversary, while not happy, my Wife understands. Tis' the season, she knows the drill.
E-47 Angle Problem – (Lots of back and forth with this one)
Subject: New Contact Request: E47 angle issue
Subject: E47 angle issue
Message: hello, I'm having an issue with my plow where it raises and lowers
BUT when you toggle it left or right it only angles to the left? I replaced
the C coil and it has magnetism and power going to the coil. Could yah
point me in the right direction? Sincerely –M
The valve is sticking or stuck. IF you unscrew the valve, and use a small
pocket screwdriver and press in on the hollow tip, you should feel it move
and spring back. IF it is not moving it is stuck. Press hard with the
screwdriver and try to pop it free, and if you can't then you need a new C
Thanks Chuck, I was able to get it free with barely any effort. I have a new C Coil that I put on it and before I assembled it I put it over the valve and was able to actuate it and see the valve go up and down. Hooked it back up, worked it back and forth once then with the dongle to the right it hit a point then started coming back toward the left while still holding dongle to right??? Then pushing dongle to the left was working the left no problem but then when I tried to push to right again it would do the same thing as it was before, going to the left either way you pushed the dongle. Took the hose and put it to the other coupler to center the plow and tried again and it did the same thing as above. After that, I coupled it and brought the plow to the right angle trying that approach with the same results. Don't know now if it is something intermittent with that C Valve but I was actuating that thing up and down bench testing it and it seemed to move freely up and down. Could it be a fluid issue, a dongle issue (I have one dongle for up and down and the other for left and right) or a crossover valve issue? Was weird, I thought it was solved when I first tried your method then it started doing the same thing. I would couple and bring plow back k manually because it would come to the farthest point left, moved dongle back and forth then it would do the same process again two more times?
It sounds like the C Coil is losing power. Because you have it going right, then mid way the valve closes and it goes left like it should when the C Valve is closed.
Could be a bad ground for the pump (should go from the pump back to the battery, not the truck frame or engine block).
Could be a bad switch that is not sending battery voltage to the Coil.
Disconnect the hose(s) from the pump.
Start the truck, and put a voltmeter across the + and – on the battery. Take note of the voltage reading. Should be around 14v.
Now go in the cab at the back of the switch and check the voltage going into the switch, it will be the black or blue wire going into the center of the switch since the two power poles on the back of the angle switch are bonded, you can probe either one (the terminal or the “button” it is bonded to. It should read 14v. IF not, then there is a problem with where the toggle controls are getting power from at the fuse box. Loose connection, etc.
IF there is 14v (or whatever the battery voltage is) at the back of the switch, have a helper press right angle while you have the green wire from the C Coil disconnected, and put the voltmeter from the green wire on the truck side harness, to the ground on the pump. Should also be 14v (or whatever battery voltage is). Have them hold the switch for a couple of seconds 1, 2, 3, and see what the reading is. IF it drops below 9v the Coil will not have enough power to hold the Valve open. Replace the angle switch.
If you have 14v or battery voltage at the green wire out to the C Coil, then the C Valve may be defective, but I am leaning hard towards an electrical problem.
Hey Chuck, I did your electrical tests. It checks out good at the back of the switch and also when you angle it right the voltage is there too. BUT are you suppose to get the same voltage when you angle left??? Because I'm getting nothing. Thanks Chuck! P.S. are you able to speed up the plow angling on the pump?
There is no way to speed it up.
On the back of the angle switch, on one side, there is white and green, which is the right angle side. Opposite that, there is just white, THAT is left angle.
To angle left the switch just sends power to the motor solenoid (white wire). We know the motor solenoid works/is getting power because you can angle right. You can raise, and go left.
Now are you SURE it is not getting power for left angle?
The white wire triggers the motor solenoid, so it is used for raise, right, and left. It jumps all over on the back of both the raise/lower and left/right switch.
IF there is no power coming out of the green wire at the back of the angle switch, then the switch needs to be replaced.
The reason it worked fine doing the bench test is because you supplied voltage, good voltage directly to it. On the truck it is going through the switch, and the harness, either of which could be the problem. I had you test out front first to rule out a bad harness, then at the switch to verify a bad switch. It is likely going to be one or the other.
Thank you for your help Chuck! I got the old timer working!!!!!! She angles now!! One last question, she goes up and down, side to side but after 10-12 cycles the motor gets a little on the warm side and has done so for the past couple of years. Is that just a brush issue you think? Or is it something worse like the armature inside? Anyway to test best or worst case scenarios. Cause I seen that you have the 3" brushes online I could purchase. Thanks again, I really appreciate your help!
It is not meant to be cycled like that during normal use. Also, I am not sure if you are outside or inside, so it is in use normally when it is around 32 degrees or colder, which helps dissipate heat. The test is to see how many amps the motor is pulling, using an ammeter or amprobe. My guess is that after 10 – 12 cycles they will all get hot. The motors are meant to run in 5 second bursts because that is all the time it takes to fully raise, or to angle from one side to the other. When it reaches the end of the stroke it is pulling around 180 amps, which is twice that needed to start the engine. Moving the plow too often and maxing out the stroke over and over will drain a good battery to the point where the alternator can’t keep up. The less the plow is moved in use, the better for the battery and alternator.
E-58H Motor Drain Tube?
Subject: e58h motor drain tube?
Message: i have an e58h setup that has a hole in the motor where i believe a drain tube goes or is it just a plug as the hole is towards the top of the motor across from the two elec. posts. does this need to be capped off? i can send pics. thanks for your time, J.
There is a little rubber nipple with a small tube that belongs in there. Do NOT cap it off. If water gets in it will fill up instead of evaporating. I do not know of a source for a replacement. Now that you mentioned it I will save them from old motors before I scrap them. IF I had one on hand I would send it to you but the scrap went last week.
E-47 Only Angles Left
Subject: E47 angle issue
Message: hello, I'm having an issue with my plow where it raises and lowers BUT when you toggle it left or right it only angles to the left? I replaced the C coil and it has magnetism and power going to the coil. Could yah point me in the right direction? Sincerely -M
The valve is sticking or stuck. IF you unscrew the valve, and use a small pocket screwdriver and press in on the hollow tip, you should feel it move and spring back. IF it is not moving it is stuck. Press hard with the screwdriver and try to pop it free, and if you can’t then you need a new C Valve.
Jeep TJ Nite Saber Lights and Headlight Adapters
Subject: Jeep TJ Night Sabre Lights and Adapters
Message: Interested in Night Sabre II lights and adapters for my 99 Jeep Wrangler. Have the Drive Pro 6'8" and Meyers site says the adapters are the 07180?
Is that correct?
I assume you have those for the $365 price for lights and adapters?
Please let me know and I will buy this week.
Yes, that is correct, the 07180 is for the 3 flat prong sealed beam headlights that the Jeep has. The price for the lights with adapters is correct, plenty in stock. You will love the lights. They are not HUGE, and they mount like a driving light with a bracket using all stainless steel hardware which means they will always be easy to adjust if needed.
Subject: Sluggish pump E47
Imagine you are super busy right now. Just looked at the forecast and they are hinting at snow for our area next week. Went to drain and flush the pump a week or two ago. Drained the pump and refilled with Meyer fluid. Flushed the angle cylinders with Meyer flush and then refilled them. Hooked it up. Up, side to side, more side to side, then down, then up. No problem. A few more of these cycles and it started to work sluggishly. A few more cycles after that it would not move. Hooked it up today and tried the same thing. Worked ok at first, then sluggish, then would not lift or angle. Help??
Also, it will not hold an angle to the left I believe. Any suggestions on this?
The meyer you installed last year on my wrangler will be used this year. I have not hooked it up yet, but don't anticipate any maintenance needed or any problems.
The entire month of November is booked with installs and repairs, so you are correct.
When it stops working, what happens?
Does the motor run?
Is the plow all the way to the left already when it stops working?
Default is left, if the motor runs, the plow goes left. There is no valve to go left.
Even a weak pump will still angle because it takes almost no power to angle the plow. There is no resistance.
The only thing that comes to mind is the motor, or electrical. Is the motor hot when it stops working? Especially the top cap on the motor.
Does the truck want to stall when it stops working and you try to get it to work? Like it is a huge load on it?
Is this a truck that is not driven very much? A weak battery will have a similar effect on the pump. I recommend one of those cheap solar chargers from Harbor Freight that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket to keep the battery charged. Just leave it on the dash….
The motor had a steel shaft. There is a bronze bushing in the bottom cap. I have seen the steel shaft rust in the off season, making it fit the bushing VERY tight. Sometimes pulling the motor off and pulling the end cap off the motor (it might be difficult if it is rusted) so you can polish the rust off the motor shaft helps. That is only if the motor is getting really hot when the pump stops working.
A weak pump will usually angle a plow, but not lift it all the way. A bad motor will affect all functions except lower. A bad battery in the truck will affect all functions too. Loose or corroded battery connections for the plow will also affect all functions.
Holding left angle but releasing from right angle is a Pilot Check Valve or Pilot Check Piston problem usually. Sometimes the Pilot Check Valve Spring is worn, or deformed from the ball getting rammed into the coils of the spring. The “proof” is if you flip the spring and it stops the problem, then you need a new Pilot Check Valve. The cheap fix is to just leave it like that (with the spring flipped) until the spring deforms again.
Finally, if there is air in the rams, you will be able to pick the plow up an inch or so, and then you can move the plow back and forth by hand. The plow should not move at all. IF it does, there is still air in the rams.
A long shot, but are you sure it is full? Did you top it off after cycling it to get the air out? The level usually drops in the tank, sometimes a lot. The long shot is the pump shaft seal sucking in air. You will have a lot of foam in the tank. IF that is the case, the actual gear pump needs to be replaced. The rams will always feel mushy (you can move the plow back and forth by hand) even though you cycled it enough to get the air out. It is no where near a common problem, but it is not unheard of.
You’ve got a lot to check.
Is there a kit to use a Slik Stik in place of a Touchpad?
Subject: Myers slikstik convert kit
Message: I want to wire the new slikstik with the same end that my touch pad uses(6 pin rectangular) ,so I can switch back if needed. Will the wire harness that comes with the kit have the right end that I will need If not what will I need to order. Thanks
You would have to make something that does not exist. The Slik Stik harness has a HUGE molded socket on the end that the Slik Stik plugs in to. As you know, the Touchpad Harness has a small rectangular plug and socket. The Touchpad needs a ground to work, so it has an extra wire that the Slik Stik does not have or need (ground). We sell the 6 pin rectangular touchpad plug and socket. You would have to sacrifice a Slik Stik Harness, or make your own and put one of our plugs on the end.
Can I replace an E-50 with an E-58H?
Subject: New Contact Request: E58h
Message: Can I replace my e60 with an e58h and still use my slick stick or the old 2 switch setup. Somewhere I heard that a new controller was needed but I thought I'd ask the experts.
The E-60 is supposed to use the digital controllers as well. The E-47, E-57, E-60, and E-58 all will work with analog (toggle switches) but analog is not the best choice. I am tired of arguing with people asking, and then telling me I am wrong because they have been using toggle switches or a Slik Stik for years with no problem. You asked what is the correct controller, and I am telling you. I am not trying to be nasty, or arrogant. I just don't understand why people ask, I give an honest answer, and they basically tell me I am wrong. So why ask?
Let me explain why the E-60 should use a digital controller. The E-60 is the fastest (highest Gallons Per Minute) pump Meyer ever made. The fluid flows faster than any other unit. Left angle is the "default" function of the pump. When the motor runs, the fluid flows, and the plow goes left. There is no Valve to go left.
When the Motor runs, the fluid leaves the actual Gear Pump inside, and flows through the B Valve (raise) then through the C Valve (right angle) and then out to the passenger side PA Ram. So default is left. To raise the plow, the switch opens the B Valve, and the fluid is diverted into the Lift Cylinder, and the plow raises. No fluid flows past the B Valve. To angle the plow right, fluid flows through the B Valve, to the C Valve, which diverts the fluid to the driver's side PA Ram, making the plow go right. NO fluid flows past the C Valve. So these facts are established.
Now, with an analog switch (toggle or Slik Stik) when the switch is released, the Valve that was being used to perform a particular function, slams shut. Valves are spring loaded, so when the magnetism of the Coil stops (the switch is let go or turned off), the Valve slams shut like it is supposed to. The problem is the motor. It has to wind down after the power stops flowing to it. The E-60 has a large motor with a heavy armature. It will spin a few revolutions before it stops. Now remember that the E-60 has the highest flow of all the Meyer units. So as the Motor winds down, where does the fluid go with no Valve open diverting the fluid? Out to the passenger side PA Ram, making the plow go left. So with analog switches, when raising the plow, when you let go of the switch, the plow will jump to the left a little, with a banging sound. This is because the valve slammed shut, and the fluid has to go somewhere as the motor winds down. I can sit in a truck with an E-60, and keep tapping the up switch, and get the plow to fully angle left, and the plow will never leave the ground.
You might notice when angling right, that when you let go of the switch, the plow jumps back left a little.
Have you ever turned on a faucet full blast, and then turned it back off quickly? Depending on the water pressure, you might hear a banging sound from the pipes. That is called "water hammer", and it is detrimental to the plumbing system. You would not want to keep doing it would you? Well the same holds true for the E-60. Not just the E-60, but the E-57, and E-58H as well, because they all use the larger heavier motor that takes longer to wind down.
The digital controllers (Touchpad & Pistol Grip) have a built in 1/3 of a second delay that sends power to the Valve that was being used for that split second to allow the plow to coast to a stop. So the Valve is not slamming shut when fluid is flowing.
Now, as far as the E-58H goes, I would stick with the E-60. It is the fastest unit Meyer ever made. The E-58H is close, but the 60 is faster. Also, keep in mind that the E-58H has SAE threaded ports on the PA Block, and does not come with Couplers. It also does not come with a wiring adapter because the Coils on the E-58H use two wires per Coil, each Coil having its own ground. There is a kit that comes with the Couplers and wiring adapter. The E-58H also uses its own Couplers, so the kit comes with adapters to put the E-58H Couplers onto your existing hoses which are NPT, not SAE threads. The Lift Arm needs to have a new hole drilled in it to run an H unit in place of a standard unit. The hole needs to be moved forward, so the Tank does not hit the Lift Frame when the unit is fully raised. The slack in the Lift Chain that you used to thread through the Lift Arm can no longer be there because the Tank is too close, so the slack has to come back down in front. So the Lift Chain is not "looped" though the Lift Arm anymore.
Finally, the E-58H has a List Price of $1801.43. That is JUST the E-58H, that does not include the kit with the wiring adapter and Couplers. That is another $100.
I hope I explained clearly what you were asking.
Nite Saber / Nite Saber II High Beams / Low Beams
Subject: meyer tech question
I have kind of a dumb question I've trying to get answered-with the Nite Saber II do the low beams stay on when the highs are turned on? (2010 Tundra)
Only if the truck lights do the same thing. The plow lights do whatever the truck lights do. So if with the plow off, the high beams on the truck light both the high and low beams, then the same will happen when the plow is on, with the plow lights. I know 2007 & up GM trucks light both. Meyer has an inline low beam cancel module to stop this from happening. Maybe not so much with the NSII lights, but the NS lights, if both are lit the lens and socket can melt.
EZ Plus / MDII Crankstand
Subject: Craig stand for the EZ Mount diamomd Meyer snow blade
Message: can someone call me and guide me through how to work the jack for the snow blade
Here is a video Meyer has on YouTube showing how to dismount the plow. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxSR2SmdVwo
Here is a video Meyer has on YouTube showing how to mount the plow. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtW1yL1oi6U
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I will add more as time allows.
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